Article written by Jennifer Somers

Everything you need to know about drugstore and supermarket shampoos, conditioners, and styling aids from the standpoint of the professional stylist, and what you want your guests to know about them.

Sooner or later we start hearing and seeing things in-salon that validate what we learned in cosmetology school. School was a great start, but it seemed to skim over parabens and sulfates. We learned they are primarily found in cheap shampoos and conditioners and cause unwanted build-up on the hair shaft and scalp and can throw off a guest’s pH. After school, we started putting together the pieces when we saw guests with a heavy waxy build-up that we couldn’t lift through, dandruff, irritated red bumpy scalps, and some even had the dreaded smell of certain brand build-up that hit your nose as soon as they open the door. 

Let’s take it even further today, here’s the rundown on the top ten additives that are most common in low-grade/quality shampoos, conditioners, and styling aids and why they are troublesome to your salon guests! Before we begin, it’s important to know that all companies/manufacturers use what’s called an ingredient deck when formulating any product, e.g. Argan Oil. 

The name of the product alone implies that it is made with just one ingredient in the bottle (Argan Oil); however, that couldn’t be any further from the truth. On the contrary, precious cold-pressed Argan Oil is so expensive to source, and to procure a single ounce costs well over $350!!! So if you turn the bottle of Argan Oil over, you will see a long list of ingredients that are put in the suspension with the Argan Oil that comprise that product. So reading the labels, the list will start with the ingredients with the highest level/percentages – usually “water”, preservatives, and cheap fillers – down to the last ingredients that have the smallest amount inside that product, with Argan Oil being somewhere toward the end. 

Dimethicones: These are large molecules that leave a heavy coating behind on the hair and have been proven to clog pores on the scalp, which leads to moisture loss to the scalp and hair. These are cheap fillers that companies use to help achieve a smoothing effect on the hair. More studies are coming out in recent years about their harmful effects to the environment, as well to the hair and scalp. 

Propylene Glycol: This is a very cheap and inexpensive ingredient that causes tearing, itching, and burning causing irritation to the scalp and causes hair loss. This chemical ingredient can also make the hair dry and brittle. It can also absorb harmful toxic tiny particles such as bacteria and debris and permeate within your scalp. This can lead to scalp irritation and throw off scalp pH, and cause lifeless dry brittle hair. 

Sodium Chloride: This is a substance that we all may better know as table salt and is used as a thickener in shampoos and conditioners. This may also result in a dry, itchy scalp in addition to hair loss. This additive breaks down and fades out the beautiful color that stylists work so hard to achieve and dehydrates the strands of hair, leaving it lackluster and pulling out demi-permanent toners. 

Sulfates: These are chemical detergents that give shampoos their foaming action as it is massaged into the hair. Over 90% of hair care companies use them in their products.

Sulfates actually strip off an entire layer of the outside cuticle layer of the hair, as well as the natural protective barrier of hair will become compromised and damaged. The sulfates are very drying, but the main concern is their potential to form carcinogens that can ultimately lead to kidney damage and hormone disruption. Next time someone is looking for a new shampoo, look for these cousins to sulfates: Ammonium Laurel Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfates (SLES), and Sodium Lauryl Sulfates (SLS), which are just as bad. 

Parabens: These are also extremely popular among cheap supermarket brands and every bit as harmful, these parabens act as preservatives to give the product a longer shelf life. This maximizes earning potential for manufacturers because these shampoos and products can sit around for years unopened before they expire. 

Xenoestrogens: These parabens can disrupt your natural hormone balance, cause skin irritation, affect reproductive health, and cause neurotoxicity. These are disguised by long words ending in paraben, for example, butylparaben, ethylparaben, and methylparaben. 

Polyene Gylcols or (PEG): These are a thickening agent often made from petroleum and are a list of by-products known for stripping the hair of moisture and causing breakage, PEG has been classified as a developmental toxicant, meaning it has also been linked to numerous types of cancers. 

Triclosan: This additive has been banned from being used in antibacterial soaps due to it being found as a carcinogen. It can still be found in toothpaste, shampoos, deodorants, and more. The ingredient list shows signs of being an endocrine disruptor which can have the same effects as the parabens mentioned earlier. This chemical has also been reported to lead to infertility, fetal harm, immune system issues, weight loss or gain, depression, uncontrolled cellular reproduction, and cancers. 

Formaldehyde: Look for Quaternium-15 – this well-known carcinogen is found in so many cheap shampoos and conditioners. This dangerous preservative can be absorbed through one’s scalp as well as seep from the packaging and into the air over time. This can cause toxicity, affect or cause asthma, and has been linked to cancer. 

Synthetic Colors and Fragrances: These are bad bad news. Not only are they unnecessary but are, in fact, harmful to your skin and cause health issues. “Fragrances” are disguised as loopholes manufacturers use to avoid listing all the extra chemicals and whatever else was used to create the fragrance. Ultimately, there is no way of knowing what you’re getting in the product. The danger is that most chemicals used to create fragrances cause infertility, skin irritation, hair loss, asthma, scalp irritation, and cancers. Synthetic colors are also a danger when used in shampoos and conditioners. Synthetic Color is derived from petroleum and coal tar, so when checking labels be on the lookout for FD&C or D&C combined with a number. 

Retinyl Palmitate: This chemical is known to cause a list of skin irritations like peeling, scaling, itching, burning, sensitivities, and redness. This ingredient has also been linked to cancer, reproductive problems, and toxicity. 

Final Thoughts:

There is no care like professional care, and when skimming over labels for these ingredients, now it’s important to know that professional brands may have some of the same ingredients listed above. However, there are certain grades and higher-quality ingredients that make them more expensive to source but safer for everyone and the environment. The way I like to look at it is like gasoline, you have higher octanes to choose from at the gas station. You can choose from 87 to 93 octane with 87 having the most fillers and metals that can build up in the engine and cause problems down the line. 93 octane is the purest and highest quality, so it makes your engine perform better!

If you’d like to print this article for colleagues or clients, you can find a PDF version here.